Friday, January 8, 2010

Menage a trois

Making fine wine entails "the proper marriage of soil, climate, and grape variety. Marriage is perhaps imprecise; it is a menage a trois." as described in Kermit Lynch's Adventures on the Wine Route on a Languedoc winemaker's approach to making fine wine.

How do we know what the best menage a trois would be in a creation of fine flavours? Some may rely on intuition. Some may encounter it by serendipity. Some, and perhaps the most phenomenal masterpieces as a result, are created through a blend of our passions.

Passions are indescribable - the way they bring a vibrancy to what we create with them, a vibrancy that comes so naturally, it's as if things were meant to be. My inspirations, recently, have been sparked by a curiosity to explore French wine, an aspiration to cook through Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc, and an obsession over mushrooms (which, IMHO, is the next Bacon).

This evening, I began with a shiitake mushroom sauce recipe. It was one that as soon as I laid my eyes upon it, I knew that I had to try it. How, with the fusion of mushrooms, oregano, white wine, oyster sauce, and orange zest, can anyone resist? Not to mention the luxurious whipping cream and butter.

As the mushroom sauce thickened on the the stove, I opened Ad Hoc to the page on halibut. I had always wondered how restaurants accomplished that golden crisp layer while the fillet remained tender! TK's method involved browning the fillet on the stove and cooking it through in the oven.

Tonight's wine was Antech's "Emotion" Cremant de Limoux rose, a sparkling rose from the southern Languedoc region. Interestingly, Languedoc is the largest French province in terms of wine production, and at the same time, it is not the most well-known region. Because of this, one can find quality wine without the expensive tag! This bottle was exactly that. It was a romantic pink wine that came to life immediately when it was opened. Its bubbles danced energetically to the top and gave way to creamy raspberry aromas.

Like 3 actors in a play, the elements each had their own personality; the shiitake sauce's myriad of flavours gave a surprise at the finish with a gentle hint of orange zest, the halibut was roasted to a crisp golden brown, and the lively Cremant de Limoux humoured with its pretty aromas and delicate dance. Once the 3 came together, the chemistry was ecstactic and the magic entertained my taste buds to utter bliss.


About Cremant de Limoux
Languedoc sparkling wines from Limoux are made following the practices of Champagne. What distinguishes a Cremant de Limoux from other Limoux sparkling wines is the higher proportion of Chenin blanc and Chardonnay. Prior to the creation of Cremant de Limoux in 1990, Limoux sparkling wines were composed of at least 90% Mauzac. In addition, Cremant de Limoux are aged for at least 12 months on lees.