Mystery of the Seghesio San Lorenzo Zin

While tasting at Seghesio (one of the area's most well-liked wineries for Zinfandels) on Sunday, I came across what struck me as peculiar phenomenon. The tasting room was pouring the San Lorenzo Zinfandel from 2 releases ago, the 2005 vintage, rather than the 2006 vintage because the 2006 vintage had sold out! Why had the 2006 vintage sold out so quickly when the 2005 was still available for sale, I asked the pourer. It was very popular, was all she replied. There was no mention of how 2006 was different from 2005 nor any mention of a limited production in 2006.

I tasted the 2005 and took note that I enjoyed the lush dark fruit swirling with notes of herb and spice, all well-balanced and not overpowered by the high alcohol content. This wine was good. What made the 2006 in higher demand?

Since the 2006 wasn't available for tasting, I investigated into the growing seasons to see if there was any indication. It appeared that both years experienced cool, wet conditions to begin with. 2005 was distinctive for mild summer temperatures (one of the coolest in the winemaker's recent memories) which led to a long growing season and allowed the grapes to mature evenly through the summer. Structured but not overly ripe wines were anticipated. 2006 saw a later start to the growing season as the year experienced a wet and cool spring. Despite this, heat experienced in July allowed for ripening of the grapes, and the potential for more powerful and weighty Zins.

Perhaps the 2006 San Lorenzo Zinfandel was more powerful. This morning, when I opened my email, I found another clue. In announcing the release of the 2007 vintage coming soon, Seghesio mentioned that the 2006 vintage had received 92 points from Wine Spectator! When listed as one of the top Recommended California Zinfandels, it is sure to sell! Ironically, Wine Spectator's general vintage reports had rated the 2005 vintage with an A and the 2006 vintage with a B- based on the growing seasons. Now the question for the 2006 vintage is - which was more powerful, the wine itself or its review by Wine Spectator?