Drinking Local

Wine Wednesday at Google tonight was ZAP.

ZAP?

All I knew was that I was going to a Zin tasting, so I thought ZAP meant Zin-At-Play or Zinfully-Abundant-with-Pepper, you know, one of those fancy words they use to describe wine. I googled the word later, and found - (a) "to destroy"; (b) "a sudden event that makes a dramatic impact"; (c) "Zinfandel Advocate & Producers". I think it's (d) All of the above!

The best part about ZAP is that it's local - the vineyards, winemaker, people pouring at the event. That means we meet the people behind the wine. (I haven't met the Google founders yet, but Google's local, so I will someday!)

Here's are my notes of some highlights:


Ravenswood
This is a story of a man who reinvented himself - an immunology researcher turned winemaker, now the Godfather of Zin. Joel Peterson had a degree in microbiology and was off to find a cure to cancer, when he stumbled upon, could it be, the powerful Zinfandel! He began making wine in a little garage (don't all great ideas come from the garage! Google did too.) which has grown to become the industry leading winery.

Joel served 2 single vineyards, the Big Rock first - a Burgundian-like wine of earthy berry tones, and then Old Hill - characterized by Sonoma dark cherries and woody spice. The experience of these wines were more than the wines themselves - Joel's passion intensified the fire in these wines.

Ridge
My favourite wine by Ridge tonight was their Carmichael. It had just the right balance of rich dark berry, ripe plum, subtle cigar, well-rounded tannins, it was perfect.

Rock Wall
Jammy! That's what you'll find from this winery, both in their wine and personality! Rock Wall shared several varietals, all with their unique strong personalities. Rockpile (minerally), Monte Rosso (honey) Jesse's Vineyard (everything you can think of - voluptuous boysenberry, spice, porcini), just to name a few.

Robert Biale Vineyards
A family owned winery with Italian heritage, it's no coincidence that one of Biale's most notable wines is the Monte Rosso, a mountaintop vineyard with red earth. (Monte Rosso is also a mountain of Veneto, Italy.) I liked the Zin for its fine spice and earth properties that interlace with the berry-like fruit. It was a joy to meet Bob as well!

Google Vineyards
If only! Google's sampler of the evening, and the hit co-star to the wines, their Korean beef fall-off-the-bone short ribs! The most tender I've had to memory, and I went back for more wine just so I could have more ribs... or was it the other way around...

Mystery of the Seghesio San Lorenzo Zin

While tasting at Seghesio (one of the area's most well-liked wineries for Zinfandels) on Sunday, I came across what struck me as peculiar phenomenon. The tasting room was pouring the San Lorenzo Zinfandel from 2 releases ago, the 2005 vintage, rather than the 2006 vintage because the 2006 vintage had sold out! Why had the 2006 vintage sold out so quickly when the 2005 was still available for sale, I asked the pourer. It was very popular, was all she replied. There was no mention of how 2006 was different from 2005 nor any mention of a limited production in 2006.

I tasted the 2005 and took note that I enjoyed the lush dark fruit swirling with notes of herb and spice, all well-balanced and not overpowered by the high alcohol content. This wine was good. What made the 2006 in higher demand?

Since the 2006 wasn't available for tasting, I investigated into the growing seasons to see if there was any indication. It appeared that both years experienced cool, wet conditions to begin with. 2005 was distinctive for mild summer temperatures (one of the coolest in the winemaker's recent memories) which led to a long growing season and allowed the grapes to mature evenly through the summer. Structured but not overly ripe wines were anticipated. 2006 saw a later start to the growing season as the year experienced a wet and cool spring. Despite this, heat experienced in July allowed for ripening of the grapes, and the potential for more powerful and weighty Zins.

Perhaps the 2006 San Lorenzo Zinfandel was more powerful. This morning, when I opened my email, I found another clue. In announcing the release of the 2007 vintage coming soon, Seghesio mentioned that the 2006 vintage had received 92 points from Wine Spectator! When listed as one of the top Recommended California Zinfandels, it is sure to sell! Ironically, Wine Spectator's general vintage reports had rated the 2005 vintage with an A and the 2006 vintage with a B- based on the growing seasons. Now the question for the 2006 vintage is - which was more powerful, the wine itself or its review by Wine Spectator?

Layer Cake

After a late night of work when my mind was still alert from intense forecasting through midnight, I decided to enjoy a glass of wine to wind down the evening. "Layer Cake" stood out on my shelf with its prominant label featuring a layered cake smack on the front! It gave me the impression that this would be a warm and lusicous wine that would fit the moment.

As I poured the 100% Primitivo wine, I noticed a very inky black-purple red hue. It's aroma reminded me of dark chocolate infused with black currant.

Layer Cake represents the winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge's grandfather's philosophy, that "the soils in which the vines lived were a layer cake. If properly made, the wine from these vines was like a delicious cake layered with fruit, mocha and chocolate, with hints of spice and rich, always rich", as quoted on the bottle's label. Just like life! I thought. Layers that make it complex, yet it all comes together, a bit of spice, always changing, always rich.

Tasting notes

Layer Cake Primitivo, 2006

Supple blackcurrant and black cherry aromas layered into dark chocolate. A rich wine with hints of earth and finish of cayenne spice. Layers are distinct yet gracefully entwined.

About Primitivo

Can anyone say Zinfandel? Or Crljenak? Primitivo is grown in Manduria of Puglia, Italy, and was recently discovered to be the identical varietal to Zinfandel, and Crljenak Kastelanski (a Croatian grape) through DNA profiling by geneticist Dr. Carole Meredith of University of California, Davis. The breakthrough led the TTB to allow Primitivo and Zinfandel to be defined synonymous in April 2002. The soils of Manduria, Italy's "Heel", are of red clay and that of an ancient sea bed. Primitivo vines bathe in Puglia's warm and sunny climate that contributes to the origin of the grape's name for its early maturity. Vines are known for their vigor and resiliance to disease, allowing for vines over 100 years old!