Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Charles Krug Sauvignon Blanc

I've lived in California for about 5 years and it's hard to believe that I haven't tried a wine from Napa Valley's very 1st winery until tonight! Charles Krug, founded in 1861 by the ambitious 27 year old immigrant, ran as a major producer in Napa that shaped much of the wine-making practices of the region. After Charles passed away and the prohibition, the winery was sold to the Mondavi couple, Cesare and Rosa, in 1943. The Mondavi family has operated the winery since while creating a new legend of their own.

As I sip the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, I'm amazed at how this pioneering winery's creation exhibits the grace of Napa Valley, marrying a traditional grape varietal with a modern character of natural subtlety. The Sauvignon Blanc is unexpected without the usual wild grassy flavours that you'd find in a typical California Sauvignon Blanc. Rather, it displays a balanced spectrum of happy grapefruit, orange zest, and peony bouquet. How inspiring it is to have a wine that is classic to its roots and at the same time, continues to set itself apart from the crowd!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Mystery of the Seghesio San Lorenzo Zin

While tasting at Seghesio (one of the area's most well-liked wineries for Zinfandels) on Sunday, I came across what struck me as peculiar phenomenon. The tasting room was pouring the San Lorenzo Zinfandel from 2 releases ago, the 2005 vintage, rather than the 2006 vintage because the 2006 vintage had sold out! Why had the 2006 vintage sold out so quickly when the 2005 was still available for sale, I asked the pourer. It was very popular, was all she replied. There was no mention of how 2006 was different from 2005 nor any mention of a limited production in 2006.

I tasted the 2005 and took note that I enjoyed the lush dark fruit swirling with notes of herb and spice, all well-balanced and not overpowered by the high alcohol content. This wine was good. What made the 2006 in higher demand?

Since the 2006 wasn't available for tasting, I investigated into the growing seasons to see if there was any indication. It appeared that both years experienced cool, wet conditions to begin with. 2005 was distinctive for mild summer temperatures (one of the coolest in the winemaker's recent memories) which led to a long growing season and allowed the grapes to mature evenly through the summer. Structured but not overly ripe wines were anticipated. 2006 saw a later start to the growing season as the year experienced a wet and cool spring. Despite this, heat experienced in July allowed for ripening of the grapes, and the potential for more powerful and weighty Zins.

Perhaps the 2006 San Lorenzo Zinfandel was more powerful. This morning, when I opened my email, I found another clue. In announcing the release of the 2007 vintage coming soon, Seghesio mentioned that the 2006 vintage had received 92 points from Wine Spectator! When listed as one of the top Recommended California Zinfandels, it is sure to sell! Ironically, Wine Spectator's general vintage reports had rated the 2005 vintage with an A and the 2006 vintage with a B- based on the growing seasons. Now the question for the 2006 vintage is - which was more powerful, the wine itself or its review by Wine Spectator?

Friday, January 8, 2010

Menage a trois

Making fine wine entails "the proper marriage of soil, climate, and grape variety. Marriage is perhaps imprecise; it is a menage a trois." as described in Kermit Lynch's Adventures on the Wine Route on a Languedoc winemaker's approach to making fine wine.

How do we know what the best menage a trois would be in a creation of fine flavours? Some may rely on intuition. Some may encounter it by serendipity. Some, and perhaps the most phenomenal masterpieces as a result, are created through a blend of our passions.

Passions are indescribable - the way they bring a vibrancy to what we create with them, a vibrancy that comes so naturally, it's as if things were meant to be. My inspirations, recently, have been sparked by a curiosity to explore French wine, an aspiration to cook through Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc, and an obsession over mushrooms (which, IMHO, is the next Bacon).

This evening, I began with a shiitake mushroom sauce recipe. It was one that as soon as I laid my eyes upon it, I knew that I had to try it. How, with the fusion of mushrooms, oregano, white wine, oyster sauce, and orange zest, can anyone resist? Not to mention the luxurious whipping cream and butter.

As the mushroom sauce thickened on the the stove, I opened Ad Hoc to the page on halibut. I had always wondered how restaurants accomplished that golden crisp layer while the fillet remained tender! TK's method involved browning the fillet on the stove and cooking it through in the oven.

Tonight's wine was Antech's "Emotion" Cremant de Limoux rose, a sparkling rose from the southern Languedoc region. Interestingly, Languedoc is the largest French province in terms of wine production, and at the same time, it is not the most well-known region. Because of this, one can find quality wine without the expensive tag! This bottle was exactly that. It was a romantic pink wine that came to life immediately when it was opened. Its bubbles danced energetically to the top and gave way to creamy raspberry aromas.

Like 3 actors in a play, the elements each had their own personality; the shiitake sauce's myriad of flavours gave a surprise at the finish with a gentle hint of orange zest, the halibut was roasted to a crisp golden brown, and the lively Cremant de Limoux humoured with its pretty aromas and delicate dance. Once the 3 came together, the chemistry was ecstactic and the magic entertained my taste buds to utter bliss.


About Cremant de Limoux
Languedoc sparkling wines from Limoux are made following the practices of Champagne. What distinguishes a Cremant de Limoux from other Limoux sparkling wines is the higher proportion of Chenin blanc and Chardonnay. Prior to the creation of Cremant de Limoux in 1990, Limoux sparkling wines were composed of at least 90% Mauzac. In addition, Cremant de Limoux are aged for at least 12 months on lees.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Bouquets to Art 2009

It is a beautiful Monday evening, and after a full day of hiking, jogging, and spa treatment, I'm ready to celebrate the start of Spring! Tonight's party is at the de Young museum and as I enter through the museum's arched entrance, I turn around for a brief last look at the pink hued sky.

Spring is a time of renewal when the sun begins to shine more, the flowers start blooming, and at the de Young museum, artists find inspiration at Bouquets to Art! Bouquets to Art, an annual fundraiser benefiting San Francisco Fine Arts museums, exhibits floral artwork of over 100 arrangements of classic and exotic flowers. Opening night is the most grand; the art is celebrated with sultry sounds of live jazz, gourmet cuisine, and a full bar! 

Upon checking in, I am welcomed with a glass of Ledgewood Creek Chardonnay, a golden chardonnay displaying refreshing notes of pear, apricots, and almond. Perfect with the sushi, smoked salmon and prawn cocktail appetizers served in the foyer. 

In the main dining room, Lavay Smith and her Red Hot Skillet Lickers is seducing the crowd with jazzy tunes. Stations of Crab appetizers, Osso Bucco, Coq au Vin, Lamb rack and Beef tenderloin are spread around white bouquet centre pieces. The meaty dishes are well paired with the evening's red wine, Ledgewood Creek Merlot. Medium-bodied, with flavours of plum, dark raspberry, and a slight tobacco finish, it had just the right acidity to go with food.

I'll admit that my drink of choice this evening is the classic Cosmo. Perhaps it's the bartender's skill, mixing just the right portions of vodka, triple sec, and cranberry juice. Or perhaps it's the hue of pink. Tonight, after all, is a celebration of visual delights!


Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Educated Guess Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

'Have you ever found yourself in a wine shop or restaurant perusing the wines and wondering... how do I choose the best wine for the money? You may admire the label, recognize a name, or recall a great review... in essence you're making an "Educated Guess." This is exactly what goes on in the vineyards and wineries around the world. When should we pick the grapes? Should we barrel age in French Oak? ... Our experts use their knowledge, intuition and years of experience to make the best possible decisions; however, at the end of the day, it still remains an "Educated Guess."'

These are the words that drew me to pick this bottle tonight! (among a wall full of wines available at Whole Foods) It was partly the quirky wine molecules and formulas printed on the front that appealed to the geek in me, and partly the fact that it was a Napa Cab that appealed to my senses, but it was the wine's philosophy that caught me - that every decision we make, as much of an expert we may be and as much as we try our best, is an educated guess.

Tasting notes

Educated Guess Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Earthy and cedar aromas are well-integrated into the supple cherry, currant and dark plum flavours. Vanilla and hints of cigar show after the opening act, with persistent dark red fruit always at centre stage of this medium bodied wine. Tannins are light. 

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Corkscrewed with Robert Camuto


I met Robert Camuto this evening at his book event in San Francisco where he performed a reading at Books, Inc! Robert shared his chapter on harvesting grapes in Alsace and his book's theme was immediately apparent - the French emphasize all things natural and expression of terroir in their wine.

"There are 4 aspects to making great wine," concluded the author based on his observations in France. Terrior - as an expression of the earth, sun, and geology. Respect for the environment - with minimal use of chemicals and intervention of nature's intention. Wine should be made from grapes - without added acid or yeast; naturally occuring yeast brings out qualities of the wine. People - wine should be made by people (not machines), and is meant to be drunk and shared by people.

"One of the things that most impressed me was how present wine is in daily life," Robert commented on his observations of life in France. "You have it with friends and it is linked with food."

"I always thought of wine as a drink, and now I see it more as a 5th food group." (I absolutely agree! 3 glasses a day, a bubbly, a white, and a red...)

We didn't have quite that formula the evening, as the book reading progressed into dinner at A16. To conclude the book reading, Robert shared a bottle of Domaine Mosse, Le Carignan 2003, that was made from vines over 120 years old. It was a deep red wine, medium bodied, soft tannins, and aromas of tobacco, baked plum, and mineral. Later at the restaurant, we had a bottle of Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2007, which was a lovely silky Italian red that expressed light currant, pluot, and hint of rosehips. Excellent wine shared with great company - C'est la vie!

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Silver Oak 2004 Napa Cab Release Party

I love everything Silver Oak. I love the wine for its flavour, fullness and complexity; I love its people for their warmth and being down-to-earth; I love Silver Oak release parties!

The 2004 Napa Cab release party today was not an exception; it was extraordinary! A double celebration for the wine release and grand opening of Oakville, the affair spurred much anticipation. No longer does one see a warming-hut-like tasting room in midst of the vineyard with construction. Today, we step upon a grandiose mansion that houses an oak-inspired tasting room, and a beautiful wine library gleaming from behind glass walls.

Silver Oak 2004 Napa Cab began flowing at 9am (we are in California!) and everyone happily meandered 'round the venue to various activities - to taste the 2004 Napa Cab in the tent, to taste the 1999 Napa Cab in the library, and to taste the Twomey merlot at the mansion's entrance. It was pure rich red wine bliss!

When the clock struck 11am, chef stations fired up their delights - Beef tenderloin bites, pulled pork sandwiches, mushroom pizza slices, braised goat, caramelized onion/fennel tartlets, asian inspired pork ribs... It was a mini-Napa village! Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, Mustards, Don Giovanni, AKA Bistro, and Barbers Q were all just a stone's throw away, and every bite paired amazingly with Silver Oak.

The party continued through the afternoon with the sun shining brightly, a live band playing, and glasses always full. That's the other thing I love about Silver Oak, they truly live by their motto "Life is a Cabernet".

Tasting Notes

2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Generous and supple, structured with dark currant, ripe black cherry, and Venezuelan dark chocolate, rounded with cedary oak flavours.

1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Elegantly seductive with smoky plum and a subtle hint of earth. Anise, wild berry, tannins have softened with age. Long, rich, persistent finish.

2004 Twomey Merlot
A silky merlot with dark boysenberry and blackberry flavours, touch of sage. This wine gave a warmer welcome to the palate when it opened up in the decanter.